Read: The Elusive Big Idea September 23, 2011

Recently in the NYTimes, Neal Gabler made the compelling argument that big ideas are eluding us today. Ideas that used to “ignite fires of debate, stimulate other thoughts, incite revolutions and fundamentally change the ways we look at and think about the world, are no longer.”  He argues we are living in a post-idea world where “big, thought-provoking ideas that can’t instantly be monetized are of so little intrinsic value that fewer people are generating them and fewer outlets are disseminating them.”  In short, information rules our lives; we don’t have the time and therefore the ability to transform information into ideas.  Gabler doesn’t provide a solution to shift this reality but he certainly made me think that we all should be considering the difference between ideas and information and how we can bring the focus back to using data to create big ideas that change the world we live in.  I also want to note that there are people and companies that are doing this. Check out: Tom’s, Opening Ceremony, Madécasse, Warby Parker and Stumptown Coffee.

 The Elusive Big Idea

by Neal Gabler

THE July/August issue of The Atlantic trumpets the “14 Biggest Ideas of the Year.” Take a deep breath. The ideas include “The Players Own the Game” (No. 12), “Wall Street: Same as it Ever Was” (No. 6), “Nothing Stays Secret” (No. 2), and the very biggest idea of the year, “The Rise of the Middle Class — Just Not Ours,” which refers to growing economies in Brazil, Russia, India and China.

Now exhale. It may strike you that none of these ideas seem particularly breathtaking. In fact, none of them are ideas. They are more on the order of observations. But one can’t really fault The Atlantic for mistaking commonplaces for intellectual vision. Ideas just aren’t what they used to be. Once upon a time, they could ignite fires of debate, stimulate other thoughts, incite revolutions and fundamentally change the ways we look at and think about the world.

They could penetrate the general culture and make celebrities out of thinkers — notably Albert Einstein, but also Reinhold Niebuhr, Daniel Bell, Betty Friedan, Carl Sagan and Stephen Jay Gould, to name a few. The ideas themselves could even be made famous: for instance, for “the end of ideology,” “the medium is the message,” “the feminine mystique,” “the Big Bang theory,” “the end of history.” A big idea could capture the cover of Time — “Is God Dead?” — and intellectuals like Norman Mailer, William F. Buckley Jr. and Gore Vidal would even occasionally be invited to the couches of late-night talk shows. How long ago that was.

If our ideas seem smaller nowadays, it’s not because we are dumber than our forebears but because we just don’t care as much about ideas as they did. In effect, we are living in an increasingly post-idea world — a world in which big, thought-provoking ideas that can’t instantly be monetized are of so little intrinsic value that fewer people are generating them and fewer outlets are disseminating them, the Internet notwithstanding. Bold ideas are almost passé.

It is no secret, especially here in America, that we live in a post-Enlightenment age in which rationality, science, evidence, logical argument and debate have lost the battle in many sectors, and perhaps even in society generally, to superstition, faith, opinion and orthodoxy. While we continue to make giant technological advances, we may be the first generation to have turned back the epochal clock — to have gone backward intellectually from advanced modes of thinking into old modes of belief. But post-Enlightenment and post-idea, while related, are not exactly the same.

Post-Enlightenment refers to a style of thinking that no longer deploys the techniques of rational thought. Post-idea refers to thinking that is no longer done, regardless of the style.

The post-idea world has been a long time coming, and many factors have contributed to it. There is the retreat in universities from the real world, and an encouragement of and reward for the narrowest specialization rather than for daring — for tending potted plants rather than planting forests.

There is the eclipse of the public intellectual in the general media by the pundit who substitutes outrageousness for thoughtfulness, and the concomitant decline of the essay in general-interest magazines. And there is the rise of an increasingly visual culture, especially among the young — a form in which ideas are more difficult to express.

But these factors, which began decades ago, were more likely harbingers of an approaching post-idea world than the chief causes of it. The real cause may be information itself. It may seem counterintuitive that at a time when we know more than we have ever known, we think about it less.

We live in the much vaunted Age of Information. Courtesy of the Internet, we seem to have immediate access to anything that anyone could ever want to know. We are certainly the most informed generation in history, at least quantitatively. There are trillions upon trillions of bytes out there in the ether — so much to gather and to think about.

And that’s just the point. In the past, we collected information not simply to know things. That was only the beginning. We also collected information to convert it into something larger than facts and ultimately more useful — into ideas that made sense of the information. We sought not just to apprehend the world but to truly comprehend it, which is the primary function of ideas. Great ideas explain the world and one another to us.

Marx pointed out the relationship between the means of production and our social and political systems. Freud taught us to explore our minds as a way of understanding our emotions and behaviors. Einstein rewrote physics. More recently, McLuhan theorized about the nature of modern communication and its effect on modern life. These ideas enabled us to get our minds around our existence and attempt to answer the big, daunting questions of our lives.

But if information was once grist for ideas, over the last decade it has become competition for them. We are like the farmer who has too much wheat to make flour. We are inundated with so much information that we wouldn’t have time to process it even if we wanted to, and most of us don’t want to.

The collection itself is exhausting: what each of our friends is doing at that particular moment and then the next moment and the next one; who Jennifer Aniston is dating right now; which video is going viral on YouTube this hour; what Princess Letizia or Kate Middleton is wearing that day. In effect, we are living within the nimbus of an informational Gresham’s law in which trivial information pushes out significant information, but it is also an ideational Gresham’s law in which information, trivial or not, pushes out ideas.

We prefer knowing to thinking because knowing has more immediate value. It keeps us in the loop, keeps us connected to our friends and our cohort. Ideas are too airy, too impractical, too much work for too little reward. Few talk ideas. Everyone talks information, usually personal information. Where are you going? What are you doing? Whom are you seeing? These are today’s big questions.

It is certainly no accident that the post-idea world has sprung up alongside the social networking world. Even though there are sites and blogs dedicated to ideas, Twitter, Facebook, Myspace, Flickr, etc., the most popular sites on the Web, are basically information exchanges, designed to feed the insatiable information hunger, though this is hardly the kind of information that generates ideas. It is largely useless except insofar as it makes the possessor of the information feel, well, informed. Of course, one could argue that these sites are no different than conversation was for previous generations, and that conversation seldom generated big ideas either, and one would be right.

BUT the analogy isn’t perfect. For one thing, social networking sites are the primary form of communication among young people, and they are supplanting print, which is where ideas have typically gestated. For another, social networking sites engender habits of mind that are inimical to the kind of deliberate discourse that gives rise to ideas. Instead of theories, hypotheses and grand arguments, we get instant 140-character tweets about eating a sandwich or watching a TV show. While social networking may enlarge one’s circle and even introduce one to strangers, this is not the same thing as enlarging one’s intellectual universe. Indeed, the gab of social networking tends to shrink one’s universe to oneself and one’s friends, while thoughts organized in words, whether online or on the page, enlarge one’s focus.

To paraphrase the famous dictum, often attributed to Yogi Berra, that you can’t think and hit at the same time, you can’t think and tweet at the same time either, not because it is impossible to multitask but because tweeting, which is largely a burst of either brief, unsupported opinions or brief descriptions of your own prosaic activities, is a form of distraction or anti-thinking.

The implications of a society that no longer thinks big are enormous. Ideas aren’t just intellectual playthings. They have practical effects.

An artist friend of mine recently lamented that he felt the art world was adrift because there were no longer great critics like Harold Rosenberg and Clement Greenberg to provide theories of art that could fructify the art and energize it. Another friend made a similar argument about politics. While the parties debate how much to cut the budget, he wondered where were the John Rawlses and Robert Nozicks who could elevate our politics.

One could certainly make the same argument about economics, where John Maynard Keynes remains the center of debate nearly 80 years after propounding his theory of government pump priming. This isn’t to say that the successors of Rosenberg, Rawls and Keynes don’t exist, only that if they do, they are not likely to get traction in a culture that has so little use for ideas, especially big, exciting, dangerous ones, and that’s true whether the ideas come from academics or others who are not part of elite organizations and who challenge the conventional wisdom. All thinkers are victims of information glut, and the ideas of today’s thinkers are also victims of that glut.

But it is especially true of big thinkers in the social sciences like the cognitive psychologist Steven Pinker, who has theorized on everything from the source of language to the role of genetics in human nature, or the biologist Richard Dawkins, who has had big and controversial ideas on everything from selfishness to God, or the psychologist Jonathan Haidt, who has been analyzing different moral systems and drawing fascinating conclusions about the relationship of morality to political beliefs. But because they are scientists and empiricists rather than generalists in the humanities, the place from which ideas were customarily popularized, they suffer a double whammy: not only the whammy against ideas generally but the whammy against science, which is typically regarded in the media as mystifying at best, incomprehensible at worst. A generation ago, these men would have made their way into popular magazines and onto television screens. Now they are crowded out by informational effluvium.

No doubt there will be those who say that the big ideas have migrated to the marketplace, but there is a vast difference between profit-making inventions and intellectually challenging thoughts. Entrepreneurs have plenty of ideas, and some, like Steven P. Jobs of Apple, have come up with some brilliant ideas in the “inventional” sense of the word.

Still, while these ideas may change the way we live, they rarely transform the way we think. They are material, not ideational. It is thinkers who are in short supply, and the situation probably isn’t going to change anytime soon.

We have become information narcissists, so uninterested in anything outside ourselves and our friendship circles or in any tidbit we cannot share with those friends that if a Marx or a Nietzsche were suddenly to appear, blasting his ideas, no one would pay the slightest attention, certainly not the general media, which have learned to service our narcissism.

What the future portends is more and more information — Everests of it. There won’t be anything we won’t know. But there will be no one thinking about it.

Think about that.

 

Neal Gabler is a senior fellow at the Annenberg Norman Lear Center at the University of Southern California and the author of “Walt Disney: The Triumph of the American Imagination.”

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Interview: Opening Ceremony April 12, 2011

“Go full force and do not do anything haphazardly.”

Shopbop recently interviewed Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, founders of Opening Ceremony.  As I’ve mentioned before, I’m a big fan of these two, not only because I feel inspired every time I walk into Opening Ceremony, but because Humberto and Carol aren’t afraid to take risks and go with their gut.  It’s an important skill of any entrepreneur and I think they embrace it with confidence.

Cool Factor: Talking with Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon & Carol Lim

Sometimes that old saying holds true: either you’ve got it or you don’t. In the case of Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, they’ve definitely got it. The duo opened their store in 2002, and it has since become a beacon for the downtown set, developing collaborations with some of fashion’s coolest kids and, most recently, working with photographer Terry Richardson and model Lindsey Wixson to shoot their spring lookbook. We talked with Leon and Lim about Opening Ceremony’s philosophy and collaborations, and working Wixson and Richardson.

Shopbop: Model Lindsey Wixson served as your muse for the spring 2011 collection. What is it about her that speaks to the Opening Ceremony brand?
HL & CL: We decided to shoot Lindsey Wixson for the SS11 campaign because she truly embodies youth, freshness, and personality. Lindsey was super fun to work with and brought an amazing energy to the shoot. And that smile? How could we resist?!

Shopbop: You shot the lookbook with renowned photographer Terry Richardson. Can you tell us a little about what made you choose him?
HL & CL: Terry Richardson is very much part of the Opening Ceremony family. We have been friends with him for years and have always wanted to work together. He really captured the fun element of the collection through his photos.
Model-muse Lindsey Wixson, shot by Terry Richardson for the spring 2011 lookbook.

Shopbop: Tell us a little bit about the history of the store. What inspired you to open it?
Humberto Leon & Carol Lim: The inspiration for the store came from a trip we took to Hong Kong in 2000. We decided to visit a mutual friend of ours from UC Berkeley and had such an incredible time finding so many things—clothing, objects, food, magazines, music—that we knew we wanted to bring this sense of discovery back to everyone we knew.

This excitement led us to open Opening Ceremony in 2002.

Shopbop: Opening Ceremony has a unique retail perspective, highlighting a new country each year. What is the philosophy behind this approach?
HL & CL: The philosophy stemmed from our love of travel. As we looked to other people or companies that featured a country every year, we realized that our concept shared similarities to the Olympics: featuring a country (not only from a sports level, but also from a cultural and infrastructure level too), the idea of anticipation, and celebration.

So, each year, Opening Ceremony features a country, bringing together emerging designers, established brands, and items we discover alongside a long and growing list of brands from the US and past countries we have featured. In the past we’ve featured Hong Kong, Brazil, Germany, Sweden, United Kingdom, Japan, France, and the USA.

Shopbop: The Opening Ceremony brand has become an arbiter of what’s hot with the downtown set. Is there a secret to your success?
HL & CL: I think that it all comes from the heart. We are always excited about everything we bring into the store, so we always go with our gut.

Shopbop: Collaborative design is also key to the Opening Ceremony experience. What prompted you to start pursuing collaborations?
HL & CL: From the beginning, we have always thought of ourselves as storytellers. So the idea of doing partnerships is completely natural. For instance, we have always believed in heritage and authenticity, and when we wanted to develop a flannel shirt, we went to the original makers at Pendleton and decided to work with them in telling their story through our lens.

Shopbop: You’ve worked with some of fashion’s coolest kids—Chloë Sevigny, Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters—as well as iconic brands like Keds and Levi’s. How do you go about choosing and developing these collaborations?
HL & CL: All our partnerships are from the heart and from nostalgic relationships we have with people and brands. There is no set formula to the different partners we work with. Sometimes they happen within weeks of the products being in the store. We like to react from the gut, and most of the time, we are so excited about the projects that we want to share them immediately.

Shopbop: Rodarte is a particularly exciting collaboration, making this label accessible to a much broader audience. How did the partnership come about and what inspired the collection?

HL & CL: We’ve known Kate and Laura since they were 18. We all went to UC Berkeley together and have always had a great connection. The partnership with Rodarte was a natural because together, we share a similar vision of storytelling. We wanted the collection to be a conversation, and we feel that we absolutely succeeded.

Shopbop: You’ve been working with Chloë Sevigny for a handful of seasons. What makes her such a great match for the Opening Ceremony aesthetic?
HL & CL: Chloë Sevigny is a good example of working with a friend who happens to be a fashion muse, and bringing her visions to life. In her own way of dressing, Chloë is incredible at mixing designer fashion with street wear, and that language speaks to Opening Ceremony completely. Chloë is always willing to experiment with fashion, which is so refreshing.

Shopbop: Are there any other collaborations in the works that you can tell us about?
HL & CL: We are launching MM6 Maison Martin Margiela x Opening Ceremony in the fall, which is super exciting. We are currently working on the next installment of Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony and Rodarte x Opening Ceremony as well.

Shopbop: Do you have a favorite collaboration from the last few years?
HL & CL: They are all so different and so personal, it would be hard to choose a favorite. Chloë, Rodarte, Pendleton, Maison Michel, MM6, Deyrolle, Keds, Dr. Martens, Agnes B., K. Jacques… They are all so different and speak to us in a special way.

Shopbop: If you had to isolate one moment from the last nine years, what would be the highlight of your work with Opening Ceremony?
HL & CL: September 1, 2002, the first day Opening Ceremony opened. Carol and I were the only two employees, and we didn’t know how to interact with customers so were both fighting for the register position.

3 Fast Questions for Humberto & Carol:
All-time favorite fashion label:
HL & CL: Comme des Garçons and Dries Van Noten

Person you most admire in the industry:
HL & CL: The people behind the scenes you don’t ever hear about.

Best advice you can offer someone looking to get a foot in the fashion industry:
HL & CL: Go full force and do not do anything haphazardly.

*Photo by Jason Frank Rothenberg

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Watch: Three. Great. Stories. February 26, 2011

This video was created as an opening for the panel discussion that one of my clients, Karen Harvey, moderated at Milk Studios on February 23rd. Big thanks to everyone who made the evening such a success.

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Join Me. February 21, 2011

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An Interview: Anna Wintour August 25, 2010

“It’s not about forcing how we choose to present our stories into the same mold. It’s about seeing how our readers interact with each medium, and what we feel each medium has to offer the reader.” -Anna Wintour


Humberto Leon, one of the co-founders of Opening Ceremony, recently had the opportunity to speak with Anna Wintour.

There’s something truly inspiring about discussing fashion with Anna Wintour that goes beyond her great influence. When Carol and I were invited to her office to discuss Fashion’s Night Out, among other topics, we were struck by how passionate and curious she remains about the fashion world. We were surprised to find ourselves geeking out with Anna on ‘Like a Prayer’-era Madonna, her iPad, lost Soho oculists, and what prompted her to put a pair of jeans on the cover of Vogue in 1988. Of course, the order of the day was Fashion’s Night Out, the event she developed last year to jumpstart global retail. I think that one of the things we share with Anna is an excitement for shopping, and a belief that retail should be fun, which is why being part of the event comes second nature to Opening Ceremony.

Humberto Leon:
What’s new for Fashion’s Night Out (FNO) this year?
Anna Wintour: This year we have a CBS documentary on the making of the event, and we’re staging the largest public fashion show in New York’s history with some of the world’s top models. It will be a carnival-style celebration like last year, only bigger and better, with more cities and retailers participating.

HL: We hear that Vogue is organizing a giant FNO fashion show at Lincoln Center, the new home of Fashion Week. What can we expect to see?
AW: Traditionally, shows are industry events, so this is unique as we’re staging it for the consumer. Not only will shoppers preview the best trends for fall on many of the world’s most recognized models, but they will also have the opportunity to purchase those trends on Fashion’s Night Out. No matter their style or budget, anyone can translate the latest trends to suit their tastes and wardrobe.

HL: How can FNO achieve the same impact abroad as it has in NY?
AW: Last year, many cities had very successful celebrations. The fact that 3 more countries have decided to join in is a testament to last year’s success. At its core, FNO is a celebration of fashion, and each city knows best how to tailor the event to suit the needs of its culture. But what’s interesting is the transactional element – stores are taking the creative initiative to draw consumers in. Each city is responsible for thinking outside the box to create that unique environment and connect shoppers with fashion on a whole different level.

HL: As a retailer, Opening Ceremony realizes that FNO is the best excuse to do something really fun, exciting, new, and fresh for our customers. Is this what you imagined for FNO?
AW: Absolutely. Opening Ceremony is a great example of a retailer that knows its consumer and is responding to their interests, personalities, and shopping habits. The store is always current and exciting, so people are destined to return again and again. It is a wonderful microcosm of what we hope the world of FNO will be on Sept 10.

HL: Ignoring budget and logistics, can you describe your fantasy FNO?
AW: Looking at the impressive lineup for this year, I think we are already seeing the fantasy being played out in reality.

HL: What is a change you’ve seen in the fashion industry since the first FNO?
AW: I believe consumer confidence is being restored. People are out there shopping again without the level of guilt or concern of the previous year. Also, it’s built community amongst designers and retailers, both competitors and otherwise, and brought together all aspects of American culture and arts, which is an exciting aspect in and of itself. It’s a time of the year when fashion cities around the world are united in a cause, which is wonderful.

HL: What’s your vision for FNO 10 years from now?
AW: That retailers and consumers will be inventing bigger and better ideas to celebrate fashion.

HL: Do you read fashion blogs, and if so, which ones are your favorites?
AW: Yes, of course. We’ve featured many bloggers in Vogue. Hanneli Mustaparta and Rachel Chandler are regular contributors to Vogue.com.

HL: How do you think fashion blogs have affected magazine content?
AW: Like any evolution in the industry, they force you to become better at what you do. Vogue’s in-depth articles and beautiful fashion stories, along with coverage of the arts within a fashion context, is not something that exists in the same way on blogs. They force us to dig deeper for stories, but we’re not competitors; we serve different markets.

HL: Can photography and fashion editorials exist on the Internet?
AW: Yes and they do. They are just presented in a different manner and provide more of a complementary voice to what lies in the pages of Vogue. Every medium serves a great purpose to reach our readers. It’s not about forcing how we choose to present our stories into the same mold. It’s about seeing how our readers interact with each medium, and what we feel each medium has to offer the reader.

HL: Your first Vogue cover featured jeans paired with a Christian Lacroix jacket. How did this idea, which was so revolutionary at the time, come about? Do you still take inspiration from youth culture? Is there anything happening in street style that you find interesting?
AW: It was first and foremost a translation of a European aesthetic for the American consumer. It brought couture to the street and streetwear into Vogue during the era of Madonna’s Like A Prayer. It was also a recognition of the importance of personal style in fashion, which has played a role in Vogue ever since.

HL: Who do you think is New York’s #1 shopper?
AW: New York is a fashion-conscious city, and there are many anonymous shoppers who could claim that title.

HL: What influences your own sense of style?
AW: I think style should always be an expression of an individual’s personality and tastes.

HL: What is your favorite store in New York that is no longer open?
AW: There was an oculist on Prince Street that had great sunglasses and is sadly now a wine store.

HL: Do you own an iPad?
AW: Yes, I do.

HL: Our FNO concept is patterned after great Parisian flea markets such as Clignancourt and Vanves. Have you ever been to any of them, and if so, what have you purchased?
AW: I am usually in Paris on business and don’t make it out to the markets, but they are wonderful places with incredible history and serve an important role in the fashion industry.

HL: As you know, our country collaboration this year is with France. Would you mind sharing your favorite French spots? What are the best shopping neighborhoods/streets?
AW: There are so many wonderful shopping areas in Paris. Different streets cater to different tastes, so it depends what I’m looking for.

HL: The place you most wish existed in NY?
AW: I love the Place des Vosges and wish there was something like it in New York.

HL: The best hotel bar?
AW: The bar at the Ritz.

HL: And finally, your favorite hidden spot?
AW: If I told you it wouldn’t be hidden!

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